This past weekend we stayed with a family in Oceanview, a coloured township. Most of the families in this area were forcibly removed from Simon's Town to make way for wealthy white families who wanted private beaches. They were relocated to Oceanview, to small project-like apartments in the 1950-60s. I've been looking forward to this homestay the entire trip- it's supposed to be one of the highlights. My main worry came from the nagging suspicion that 140 privileged American students going to stay for a weekend in a poor township sounded a lot like poverty tourism. However, our project director, Quinton, is coloured and has a long relationship with the people of this community and through these connections was able to find families who truly wanted to educate students about their community. We are assured that the families aren't hosting us for the money (of which a small amount is paid), but rather that they do it because they love meeting international students and teaching us about their community.
Needless to say, I LOVED my family. My "moms" name was Iris Abrahams. She is a petite sassy corn-rowed 30 something lady who lives with her boyfriend, Curly, and their 12 yr old daughter, Kelly. They live in a small, but comfortable 2 bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, living room apartment that used to belong to Iris' grandmother. Iris' grandmother was a diabetic and had to get her legs amputated toward the end of her life. During this time when she was bedridden, Iris was one of the only family members to tend to her and cook for her. After her grandmother passed away, she was so used to coming straight home from work to take care of someone that she says she still has no social life. Iris is a G. She also is the rock of her family (like many women...). Her sister, brother in law, mother, and nephews are over literally everyday. Random neighbors and friends from the area are also constantly popping by to just hang out or say hi. The house is always bustling with some new visitor or cooking or blaring music videos. Iris' boyfriend Curly is funny and opionated- we talk a lot about race in SA and politics, the corruption and the lack of faith in the system. Curly and Iris met in high school and they are still together- crazy! He used to be a gangbanger, but apparently cleaned up his act when Iris got pregnant with Kelly. Kelly is a shy, reserved girl who is already recruited to play for SA's national Badminton team. Iris' cute 2 yr old nephew, Ryan, is also over all the time. He is literally the cutest boy I've ever seen. He's a little hurricane and is so hyper- crying one second and laughing the next, I had so much fun playing with him. I thought he hated me because he would cringe when I hugged him, but apparently whenever he left Iris' house he would ask his mom where the "aunties" went (ie. Me and another American, Maria, who was staying with Iris as well) SO CUTE! He makes me want kids, which is a huge feat in itself. He is my new baby and his parents agreed to give him to me. The details of this arrangement will be worked out soon...
Anyways, Iris and co treated us unbelieveably well- constantly making food for us, force feeding us box wine and taking us camel riding on the beach. haha, though their lifestyle was so different from mine and their struggle so much more articulated, their hospitality and generosity was more than anything I could have imagined. They are amazing people- can't wait to go back and visit- I'm going in a couple weeks. When I got on the bus to leave for UCT, they stood outside the bus and waved till we left and as soon as I got back to my room, Iris SMSed me "We're fighting over the last potato, miss you already!" How freaking cute is that? The whole potato reference is because I ate like a mountain of fried potatoes they made that day... Quinton says that the point of our study abroad experience is to gain "positive experiences of marginalized people". Mission Accomplished.
Poverty tourism...interesting. Remember the field trip to Skid Row? Yet essential, sounds like. Amazing work, amiga. When are you going to be back in California? Will our paths cross?
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